Catherine’s Log – Galicia

3rd Sept 9.05am departed Viveiro for Cedeira.
Very little wind, and very rolly, got two hours sailing under genoa, rest motored. Arrived Cedeiro, and dropped anchor at 3.55pm. Blew up dingy and went ashore, everyone wearing masks outside, including cafe outside seating. Had a swim at the beach, some shopping, a cool drink in an outside cafe, and back to boat for a late tea. Cedeira is beautiful, would love to spend more time here, so sad what this virus has done.

4th Sept Cedeira to La Coruna
Raised anchor at 9.30am and left the lovely little town and bay of Cedeira to head for La Coruna. No wind (again!) to sail, so had to motor the entire way. Got into Marina Real at 4.10pm, ready to shelter from the up and coming hooly. Gale force winds forecast for Sat, Sun, and Mon at least, starting to blow up this evening.

8th Sept Our anniversary, 5 years
Gave Nick all his presents (including for his birthday on Fri) in the morning, went to the beach, on the way stopped at a few shops, Nick wanted to buy me something as he hadn’t got me anything for our anniversary, got a lovely pair of lace shorts. At beach water was baltic, l couldn’t go in for a swim as it was way to cold, but Nick did. Dried, dressed and headed off the beach as we hadn’t had lunch, decided to just get prawns for a late lunch on boat, and some boat supplies from supermarket on way back. Were going to go out for Tapas for our anniversary, but we were both too tired. Getting ready to leave La Coruna in the morning, water tank leaked again flooding some, need new tank, and a new autohelm.

9th Sept La Coruna to Camarinas
Up at 4am and slipped pontoon at 5.05, very dark and a lot of activity getting out into open water, a lot of fishing boats about, and a bit confusing trying to make sense of what all the lights were. Was extremely rolly and pretty cold, l went for a sleep at 10, got up at 12 when Nick was just switching engine off and sailing just under genoa with one reef. Light winds, but extremely rolly sea’s until then. Wind picked up to around 17kts, gusting 23, wind continued to rise, 22 gusting 30 with big seas building. Arrived Camarinas 3.45, and anchored off beach, Nick went for a sleep knackered, made spag bol.

10th Sept Camarinas to Ria Muros
A lot warmer all day than yesterday. 10.10am, raised anchor and sailed off under genoa. 10.20 engine on, 10.45 engine off and sailing under full genoa at 18kts, gusting 23, then went further in shore to see more, and pass closer to Cape Finisterre, wind died and engine on at ten past two. Entered Ria Muros about 5.30 and were circled by a customs boat. Anchored Ensenada De San Francisco Bay at 6.15pm. Customs boat came back, and after milling around another boat for some time, came over to us asking to see our documents, and asking where we’d come from, and our final destination, were very polite, and friendly, but was very weird. Discovered chicken we’d bought to make curry was rotten, made ommelate instead.

11th Sept Nick’s 68th birthday. From Muros to Ria de Arosa
Got a better night’s sleep than the night before. Up around 9, made breakfast, and raised anchor at 11, set of motoring, leaving Muros for Ria de Arosa. Very little wind (and very hot) so motored all the way until we got into the Ria. Going through the Canal de Sagres (a narrow passage surrounded by rocks) to get into the Ria a bit scary. Got a short sail once into the Ria, but wind died again, so engine back on to get to the anchorage, beautiful area and little bays with masses of mussel rafts, but the people were mad, speed boats, and jet ski’s going at rediculouse speeds, seeing how close they could get to you. Three girls on a jet ski zoomed really close to us (almost hitting us), whizzing passed our bow, spraying over the bow, absolute morons. Bay was crazy for a while with speed boats and jet ski’s, but thank god it eventually quietened down. Made paella with chorizo again for dinner, and watched the most beautiful sunset. Moving to the marina tomorrow for a few days to get boat things done.

12th Sept Wakened with anchor alarm in middle of night (3am)
Nick thought it was ok, but went off again at 4, we were dragging, sleepless night, l lay down for a couple of hours, didn’t sleep much. Up at nine to raise anchor and cross over to marina, both shattered. Motored round to Vilanova marina, Nick not happy with marina, don’t give key to get back onto pontoons, have to wait for guy to open gate, a guard dog runs loose in the grounds at night, no one speaks a word of English, so Nick reckons he will not get help with boat repairs. Supermarket 1km away, laundry not that close to marina, all shut Sunday. Day picked up though, went to lovely little beach just round from marina, had lunch of muscles, bread, and beer in a restaurant opposite beach first, went to beach, swimming in the very cold water was such a relief as it was unbearably hot (37°), water was heaven. Went back to marina for showers, went for a walk, and realised this was a lovely little town, lot of people about, but not over crowded. Finished up evening with another meal out, shrimps, tortia, pimentos de padron, bread, and beer. Halliard kept me awake until 3am, sorted it myself as Nick sound asleep.

13th Sep Ria do Arosa
Nick tried to fit the new morse control, but the hole is too big for the new one, he is going to see a man. Made pasta with tuna mayo for lunch, walked round to the other side of the marina to see the other beaches, had a late swim, coffee, then made paella again back at boat. Everything shut due to it being Sunday, so no shopping until tomorrow.

14th Sept Ria do Arosa Woke to rain this morning. Not a nice morning, overcast, misty, but not cold. Man came to help Nick, suggested just using a stainless steel plate for new morse control, but he doesn’t do stainless steel, he arranged for the stainless steel man to come in the afternoon. We went and got a load of shopping to stock up the boat, met a couple off a boat from Shetland, Ewan and Laura, l cleaned the cushions, windows, and hoovered. 6pm, man not turned up, we could have gone to the beach, brightened up in afternoon, sun came out, very hot. Just put the tea out around 8 when man turned up to take measurements for Morse control, said he would be back around the same time next day.

15th Sept Ria do Arosa
Went to the other beach for the day on the other side of the marina, then had a coffee. Man came to fit new Morse control at 6pm. Got stung with cost of €200, 150 for him, and 50 for the guy who came and looked at it.

16th Sept. Left Ria Arosa for Bueu
Anchored one night.

17th Sept. Left Bueu for Limens
Anchored one night in Limens. Arrived in the anchorage in the evening, thunderstorm started after we arrived with heavy rain. Didn’t last long, then was still a bit cloudy, but a beautiful evening, a peaceful anchorage all to ourselves.

18th Sept. Raised anchor and left Limens in Ria Vigo heading for Baiona
Two hour sail, last stop before Portugal. Anchored two nights.

19th Sept, Baiona
A visit to the old Fort today. An incredible coastline, and fantastic views from the Fort.

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